This page will be a short one.  I wanted a simple place to put the little tricks and hints that I learned about photography development. I will admit that it will not be a very long list, development is very straightforward, but it took me a few years to learn all these things.  Why not give someone else a fast forward on this learning curve?

• You can reuse developer. You will read a great deal of crap on this but the truth is that you can...HOWEVER...if you dilute your developer than use it within 24 hours of diluting it. Also add a bit of time for every re-use. I add about 15 - 30 seconds. I have only reused it twice and dumped it after that. Most of the time I dump as I rarely develop different rolls at different times on the same day.
• You should reuse fixer. I do it all the time. There is no guideline for how many times you can reuse it but there is an EASY test to do. Take a piece of you leader (the little bit of film that you cut off before loading onto a roll) and drop it in fixer. Start a timer. It should go clear within 60 seconds at room temperature (as long as it is not too cold). This is why I soak my film in fixer for 5 minutes. I usually find that my film clears up within 30 seconds. So a five minute soak will ensure it is fully fixed.
• Stop bath should be used. The reason...it prolongs the life of your fixer. It is very cost effective and only adds 1 minute to your entire development time.  
• Pre-washing film in ok. It does not hurt and as long as the water is clean and at the right temperature (equal to your development temperature usually 20deg C). Some film has a coating that will ruin your developer after one use.  This is not really an issue for me. If you see the developer come out dirty you can do a water rinse before your stop bath to keep the bath clean.
• Agitation is over evaluated. Everyone has their preferred method of agitation, some prefer to rotate the entire developing can, others use the agitation stirring stick. Some like to agitate a lot, others choose to barely agitate.  Here is the only answer that matters...agitation is done (by whatever means) to change the chemical that is in contact with the film. I personally use the agitation stirring stick that comes with Paterson tanks. I spin it in one direction per second. So for the first sixty seconds I am rotating the stick, then 10 seconds every minute. But honestly it does not matter.  Too little agitation and you will lose contrast. Too much and you will....do absolutely nothing. There is no such thing as too much. Some argue you can agitate too aggressively, but I have not seen this yet.  Don't believe me?  Check out this YouTuber...HERE.
• Temperature is an issue. Development is chemistry and chemical reactions are accelerated or delayed due to temperature. The hotter a chemical gets, the more the atoms vibrate and this helps in most chemical reactions. So the cooler your developer is the longer you need to leave it in there.  I make sure that my developer is at 20deg C.  Most of my development times are under 10 minutes. If it is summer and it is over 10 minutes I will put the enter tank in 20deg C water to keep it the right temperature.  I never worry about the temperature of stop bath or fixer and only make sure it is equal to 20 deg C or warmer.
• DO NOT USE WET REELS. They may feel dry but if you used them in the last 12 hours put them under a hairdryer. You will ruin your film if you load it onto wet reels. 
• Dust, F%$#ing Dust...It is a very big issue with negatives. Be sure you hang them to dry in your shower (assuming you used it that morning and won't use it again until the film is dry). The shower you took in the morning will have removed a great deal of dust from the air. Let the film hang until completely dry. Then cut and put immediately into the protectors. Use a blower before scanning or enlarging.
• Use gloves when handling your negatives. The problem is not finger prints but the oil that your fingers have will attract dust. And once this is done your blower will not remove the dust. They you have to re-wash the negative which is painful. Just used white cotton gloves and you will be fine. They will occasionally leave a little lint but this is easy to blow off with a blower...not your breath.
• Yes you need complete darkness when working with negatives. The red light in darkrooms are only for handling paper which is less sensitive than film. Trust me it must be completely dark. I even remove my analog watch when using a dark changing bag to avoid the florescent numbers from ruining my film. 
• Color development is easy. Do not believe anything different.  Again temperature is critical but the rest is supper simple. Just buy the chemicals, watch a YouTube video and go for it!
• Keep your tools clean. If you want consistent results you need your tools to be clean. A little soap and warm water will get everything clean and ensure it is ready for you next time.
• To squeegee or not to squeegee. It helps drying time, and reduces streaks but can scratch negatives. I have been using one for three years without an issue.  I will buy a new one soon to replace it just in case. 
• Development is not THAT exact. What I mean so say is do not lose sleep over it. I once put my fixer before my stop. I was convinced I had ruined my film....nope everything came out just fine.  If you want more contrast add 30 seconds to your development time...want less remove 30 sec.  Use your gut and you will find that most of the time you will be fine.
• Stand Development is great! It is easy and you do not have to calculate anything. I use Rodinol diluted to 10cc for 1 Liter. I pour it into my tank and agitate for 1 minute. I then let it stand there for 30 minutes then agitate for 1 minute and let it stand for another 30 min.  Then stop, fix and clean. This will increase micro contrast including grain.
• Grain can be more easily seen when contrast is increased. If you don't like grain then use 100 ISO film or lower, agitate half the recommended amount and do not use stand development. You can even reduce development time by 30 seconds. Contrast will highlight grain. 
• Pushing and Pulling is great! Simple too...in order to push you need to develop for longer, if you want to pull then develop less. How much, depends on your film, number of stops to push or pull but generally speaking I add 20% development time per stop added or removed. Not an exact science but it gets me in the ball park.
• Scanning is a pain and does not deliver the quality you have come to expect from digital cameras. I scan on a cheap scanner and am happy with it.  My real work is done in the dark room and it turns out GREAT over there.  I use scanning to get a quick view of the negatives and to share on line.