So you bought your first film camera, took some pictures and now are wondering what all the fuss is about? Well, if you love the shooting but are disappointed in the results it could be because you are scanning your negatives. Film photography has evolved with the darkroom in mind. There is only one negative that I know of which was designed to be scanned and it is for color film. B&W was designed so photographers could take their negatives and make an image.
Aside from the chemistry (virtually identical to film development process) and darkroom equipment (yes it does make a difference) the only big decision to be made is what paper to use. I decided to explain what I use and why I choose to use this paper. This has been through trial and error in finding what works for my photography and understanding why. This is NOT a one-size fits all kind of decision and the only way you will know what you like is to try different papers.
In film, we are told to stick with one film type. When it comes to darkroom paper the opposite is true. Try them all, give it a go and see which you like for what mood. There is nothing wrong with having four or five different paper in your darkroom. Experiment, be bold and enjoy!
Step One: Size
The first decision is to determine the size of paper you want. Now I have explained my relatively recent recognition that small can be powerful so if you have not see that please have a look HERE in order to appreciate what I am about to say. I like small prints but like big paper and here is why...you can always cut paper down to size but you cannot go the other way. So if you are only going to buy one size paper buy the bigger one and cut down to the size you need.
So what determines the largest size you should buy? Simple, the size of your trays. If your tray is designed for 8x10 then this is the biggest paper you should get. Any bigger and you will not be able to develop it properly. I have 8x10 trays and like this paper however I have also bought 4x5 and here is why.
While I can indeed cut down 8x10 to 4x5 it is far quicker to have the right size ready. So I always keep a box (or two) of 8x10 and one or two of 4x5 of different paper which gives me the largest alternatives in terms of print size versus paper type.
Step Two: Resin Coated or Fiber Based
Ah this is a long debate about nothing. The difference here is the paper stock used. Fiber based, is the more traditional, usually thicker and difficult to keep flat. People recommend that you do not start with FB paper as it is more of a challenge. Resin Coated is a more modern, flatter paper that has been sealed by two polyethylene layers, making it less penetrable to liquids. I have used both and prefer Resin Coated and here is why...
I swear by this paper although I do have some FB in the darkroom at all times. There are times a certain print needs to have a bit more of a paper feel. FB is perfect for that and not much else. Seriously choose RC and move on.
Step Three: Finish
Glossy, Luster, Matt, Pearl, Satin, Semi-Matt and Textured Matt....WTF?!?! Well this is the surface of the paper and is really a question of how it shines, or does not shine. Glossy shines too much, Matt is too dull but Peal gives me a nice medium shiny finish with a texture that is smooth but textured. This is up to you but if you have not bought paper before I suggest you start with Pearl and work out from there.
Step Four: Tone
I like a warmer tone to my paper. It gives it a more aged look without overdoing it. The cool tone seems too white to me. Again it is something of a preference and there are not too many options but this subtle change can make you love your photo or hate it. Give both a try and select the one that speaks to you more.
Aside from the chemistry (virtually identical to film development process) and darkroom equipment (yes it does make a difference) the only big decision to be made is what paper to use. I decided to explain what I use and why I choose to use this paper. This has been through trial and error in finding what works for my photography and understanding why. This is NOT a one-size fits all kind of decision and the only way you will know what you like is to try different papers.
In film, we are told to stick with one film type. When it comes to darkroom paper the opposite is true. Try them all, give it a go and see which you like for what mood. There is nothing wrong with having four or five different paper in your darkroom. Experiment, be bold and enjoy!
Step One: Size
The first decision is to determine the size of paper you want. Now I have explained my relatively recent recognition that small can be powerful so if you have not see that please have a look HERE in order to appreciate what I am about to say. I like small prints but like big paper and here is why...you can always cut paper down to size but you cannot go the other way. So if you are only going to buy one size paper buy the bigger one and cut down to the size you need.
So what determines the largest size you should buy? Simple, the size of your trays. If your tray is designed for 8x10 then this is the biggest paper you should get. Any bigger and you will not be able to develop it properly. I have 8x10 trays and like this paper however I have also bought 4x5 and here is why.
While I can indeed cut down 8x10 to 4x5 it is far quicker to have the right size ready. So I always keep a box (or two) of 8x10 and one or two of 4x5 of different paper which gives me the largest alternatives in terms of print size versus paper type.
Step Two: Resin Coated or Fiber Based
Ah this is a long debate about nothing. The difference here is the paper stock used. Fiber based, is the more traditional, usually thicker and difficult to keep flat. People recommend that you do not start with FB paper as it is more of a challenge. Resin Coated is a more modern, flatter paper that has been sealed by two polyethylene layers, making it less penetrable to liquids. I have used both and prefer Resin Coated and here is why...
- They absorb less chemical leading to less waste.
- The process much faster.
- They dry faster.
- They are less affected by moisture after development.
- They dry completely flat.
I swear by this paper although I do have some FB in the darkroom at all times. There are times a certain print needs to have a bit more of a paper feel. FB is perfect for that and not much else. Seriously choose RC and move on.
Step Three: Finish
Glossy, Luster, Matt, Pearl, Satin, Semi-Matt and Textured Matt....WTF?!?! Well this is the surface of the paper and is really a question of how it shines, or does not shine. Glossy shines too much, Matt is too dull but Peal gives me a nice medium shiny finish with a texture that is smooth but textured. This is up to you but if you have not bought paper before I suggest you start with Pearl and work out from there.
Step Four: Tone
I like a warmer tone to my paper. It gives it a more aged look without overdoing it. The cool tone seems too white to me. Again it is something of a preference and there are not too many options but this subtle change can make you love your photo or hate it. Give both a try and select the one that speaks to you more.
